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See more objects with the tag metallic, botanical, asymmetry, apparel fabric, foliate, exotic.

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Object Timeline

1902

  • We acquired this object.

2011

2020

  • You found it!

Textile (France), 1690–1710

This is a Textile. It is dated 1690–1710 and we acquired it in 1902. Its medium is silk, metallic yarns and its technique is damask weave with discontinuous supplementary weft patterning (brocade). It is a part of the Textiles Department department.

This European silk and metallic brocade borrows liberally from the Indian painted cotton or chintz fabrics which were so popular at the time. First imported in the late 17th century by the East India Companies, their popularity increased throughout the 18th century. While the initial impression of this fabric is of a staid, symmetrical design, closer inspection reveals exotic fruits and foliage, rendered with botanical fascination. While the diaper patterns filling the solid areas foreshadow the ‘lace style’ brocades of the 1720s, this design, with its spiky plant forms, also has characteristics of the so-called bizarre style, which peaked during this period.

This object was donated by John Pierpont Morgan. It is credited Gift of John Pierpont Morgan.

Our curators have highlighted 3 objects that are related to this one.

Its dimensions are

H x W: 104.8 x 50.8 cm (41 1/4 x 20 in.)

Cite this object as

Textile (France), 1690–1710; Previously owned by Antonio Vivês y Escudero (Spanish, 1859–1925) ; silk, metallic yarns; H x W: 104.8 x 50.8 cm (41 1/4 x 20 in.); Gift of John Pierpont Morgan; 1902-1-414

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<ref name=CH>{{cite web |url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18130897/ |title=Textile (France), 1690–1710 |author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |accessdate=13 July 2020 |publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}</ref>