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Brooch (England or United States)

This is a brooch. It is dated ca. 1837 and we acquired it in 1960. Its medium is hair, gold, ivory, seed pearls, pailettes. It is a part of the Product Design and Decorative Arts department.

Ornamental hair work became popular in seventeenth-century England, but reached a peak in the 1800s as part of elaborate mourning rituals. Wealthy Victorian women practiced hair work as part of their leisurely pursuits, often using locks from a deceased friend or relative to create a tangible reminder of that person. Alternatively, hair could be sent to a professional tradesman, but practitioners could be deceitful. Some tradesmen replaced human hair with sturdier horsehair or sold ready-made pieces, disregarding the original strands’ sentimental value. There were two main types of hair work jewelry: hair transformed into a picture and hair plaited into a design. This brooch, which has a matching bracelet in the museum’s collection, displays both styles: the central motif is a horn-of-plenty made of hair, secured in a glass case and surrounded by tightly woven strands. The outer hair would have been plaited around a mold, such as a knitting needle, then boiled and dried before the mold was removed and the piece was taken to a jeweler for a gold clasp and fittings. Hair work jewelry was often based on existing designs, and a form similar to this one is included in Charles T. Menge’s 1873 catalog in the museum library.

This object was donated by Mrs. Charles W. Lester. It is credited Gift of Mrs. Charles W. Lester.

Its dimensions are

H x W x D: 3.7 x 3 x 0.2 cm (1 7/16 x 1 3/16 x 1/16 in.)

It is inscribed

On front: "FEG"; inscribed on back: "MARY ANN GROVES 1804-1837."

Cite this object as

Brooch (England or United States); hair, gold, ivory, seed pearls, pailettes; H x W x D: 3.7 x 3 x 0.2 cm (1 7/16 x 1 3/16 x 1/16 in.); Gift of Mrs. Charles W. Lester; 1960-17-2

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Campana Brothers Select: Works from the Permanent Collection.

This image is in the public domain (free of copyright restrictions). You can copy, modify, and distribute this work without contacting the Smithsonian. For more information, visit the Smithsonian’s Terms of Use page.

If you would like to cite this object in a Wikipedia article please use the following template:

<ref name=CH>{{cite web |url= |title=Brooch (England or United States) |author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |accessdate=3 February 2023 |publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}</ref>