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1962

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Cravat End (France), ca. 1695

This is a Cravat end. It is dated ca. 1695 and we acquired it in 1962. Its medium is linen and its technique is needle lace, 6 sided reworked grounds. It is a part of the Textiles department.

This cravat end is believed to have been made to celebrate the marriage of the Duke of Burgundy (1682–1712) to Marie-Adélaïde of Savoy (1685–1712) in 1697. The central figure is a warrior in Greco-Roman style armor with a helmet suggesting the form of a double-headed eagle. Above him is a large closed crown flanked by cherubs, a symbol of sovereignty which suggests that the figure is very likely the Duke of Burgundy, grandson of Louis XIV. Crouched on either side of him are his brothers, the Duke of Anjou and the Duke of Berry. At the top, two pairs of dolphins lend further evidence that this lace commemorated the marriage of the Dauphin of France.
Louis XIV had several royal designers, including Charles LeBrun (1619–1690) and Jean Bérain (1640-1711), whose influence is most evident here. Bérain’s designs for furniture, interiors, theatre sets, and costumes were fanciful and whimsical, yet his designs tend to align motifs along vertical axes so the numerous figures, heraldic symbols, and architectural flourishes retain an elegant balance.

This object was catalogued by Christa C. Mayer Thurman. It is credited Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma Greenleaf.

Our curators have highlighted 5 objects that are related to this one. Here are three of them, selected at random:

  • Waistcoat (France), 1785–95
  • silk and metallic embroidery on silk foundation, linen back.
  • Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma....
  • 1962-54-47

Its dimensions are

H x W: 26.7 x 48.9 cm (10 1/2 x 19 1/4 in.)

Cite this object as

Cravat End (France), ca. 1695; linen; H x W: 26.7 x 48.9 cm (10 1/2 x 19 1/4 in.); Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma Greenleaf; 1962-50-18-a

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Making Design.

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<ref name=CH>{{cite web |url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18444503/ |title=Cravat End (France), ca. 1695 |author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |accessdate=23 March 2019 |publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}</ref>