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1913 |
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Coat (France)
This is a Coat. It is dated ca. 1790 and we acquired it in 1913. Its medium is silk embroidery on silk foundation, silk lining and its technique is embroidered in satin, surface satin, stem and knot stitches with appliqué on plain weave foundation with supplementary warp and weft patterning; twill lining. It is a part of the Textiles department.
Maintaining a Pleasant Atmosphere
This coat, called an habit, embodies aristocratic extravagance before the French Revolution. The habit was worn as part of the habit à la française, an early three-piece suit that also included a waistcoat (vest) and breeches. The embroidery is dense with large-scale flowers, scalloped ribbons, and tassels on a silk fabric woven with a pattern of blue and black chevrons and stylized floral designs. This garment was produced by professional textile workers: Men wove the patterned silk fabric, and then a master tailor oversaw female sewers who embroidered the coat, before he custom assembled it. The coat is cut to fit closely to the body, it gradually curves backward from the mid chest to the knee, and it has no stiffened pleats in the lower portion. The maneuverability and emphasis on movement coincides with French attitudes about posture and gesture in social situations. Smooth and flowing movement, not too broad or agitated, was critical for maintaining a pleasant atmosphere. Towards the end of the 18th century, a coat with this magnitude of decoration was worn only at exceptionally formal events.
This object was featured in our Object of the Week series in a post titled Maintaining a Pleasant Atmosphere.
This object was
donated by
Mrs. Edward C. Post.
It is credited Gift of Mrs. Edward C. Post.
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Its dimensions are
H x W: 124.5 x 69.9 cm (49 x 27 1/2 in.)
Cite this object as
Coat (France); silk embroidery on silk foundation, silk lining; H x W: 124.5 x 69.9 cm (49 x 27 1/2 in.); Gift of Mrs. Edward C. Post; 1913-33-1
