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Object Timeline

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2004

  • Work on this object began.

2005

  • We acquired this object.

2009

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2022

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Panel, Composition (SI001)

This is a Panel. It was designed by Claudy Jongstra. It is dated 2004 and we acquired it in 2005. Its medium is merino wool, wold silk, cotton gauze and its technique is felted. It is a part of the Textiles department.

This textile by Claudy Jongstra is a prime example of felting, which is a technique that uses the application of pressure, heat, and moisture to mat together fibers. Often, the fibers are not spun or twisted, but are simply a mass of fibers lying indiscriminately in all directions. Two fabrics by Jongstra, Composition (SI 001), seen here, and Composition (DH/WD/SI 001), were both commissioned specifically for the museum’s collection. They exemplify not only the general range of felting techniques, but also the variety of Jongstra’s work. The refined and rippled fabric of this textile, Composition (SI 001), is made of wool merino, wild silk and cotton gauze, and reveals to the viewer the finesse of her craft, as opposed to the other example which looks as though it came straight of the back of the sheep.
Jongstra is a contemporary textile designer who practices the ancient technique of felting. Since the mid-1990s she has created extraordinary felted fabrics for fashion designers such as John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, and Donna Karan, and for architects and designers Steven Holl, Will Bruder, Jasper Morrison, and Marcel Wanders. Jongstra’s fabrics have a raw elegance that comes from her use of materials such as wild silk, wild linen, and wild cashmere, as well as the special (and proprietary) techniques she has developed in her felting. Jongstra even goes so far as to raise her own sheep in the Dutch countryside and currently has a herd of 200, including the rare species of long-haired Drenthe Heath whose shorn locks she felts along with the straw and lanolin that accumulates on their hair.
At the time of proposed acquisition, the textile collection has relatively few examples of felt. As part of our collection plan, we would like to build up the museum’s collection of this important technique in textile making.

It is credited Museum purchase from General Acquisitions Endowment Fund.

Its dimensions are

H x W: 150 x 90 cm (59 1/16 x 35 7/16 in.)

Cite this object as

Panel, Composition (SI001); Designed by Claudy Jongstra (Dutch, b. 1963); Netherlands; merino wool, wold silk, cotton gauze; H x W: 150 x 90 cm (59 1/16 x 35 7/16 in.); Museum purchase from General Acquisitions Endowment Fund; 2005-3-2

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Fashioning Felt.

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<ref name=CH>{{cite web |url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18701169/ |title=Panel, Composition (SI001) |author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |accessdate=17 May 2022 |publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}</ref>