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Handkerchief (England), 1897

This is a Handkerchief. It is dated 1897 and we acquired it in 2008. Its medium is cotton and its technique is printed by engraved roller on plain weave. It is a part of the Textiles department.

Since the initial development of copperplate printing in the mid-18th century, designs for textiles have included scenes commemorating political, military, or cultural events of the day, all taken from contemporary engravings. In 1783, Thomas Bell patented a roller printing machine, exponentially increasing the speed at which textiles could be printed while decreasing the cost at which they could be produced. Throughout the 19th century, England’s textile printing industry surpassed that of any other nation. The mechanization of textile printing made textile ephemera affordable, and every 19th-century royal event, political campaign, engineering feat, and military success was accompanied by printed souvenir fabrics. While handkerchiefs were the favored format for souvenir fabrics (and remained so until the introduction of silkscreened t-shirts in the 1960s), some designs were printed on yardage goods that were clearly intended to be used for clothing, curtains, bed hangings, and other household purposes.
This 1897 Diamond Jubilee kerchief has a medallion portrait of Queen Victoria. The coat of arms of Britain fills the background, dividing it into four sections.
This kerchief is proposed for acquisition along with other souvenir fabrics, including a kerchief printed for the Golden Jubilee in 1887 and a memorial kerchief printed after the Queen’s death. As a group, these provide an excellent demonstration of how costly sets of printing blocks and rollers were repurposed for various designs. These pieces complement each other and expand upon the British souvenir fabrics currently held by the museum, including one dating from 1837 depicting the coronation and another yardage fabric from the 1897 celebrations.

This object was donated by Paul F. Walter. It is credited Gift of Paul F. Walter.

Its dimensions are

Frame H x W: 41.9 x 45.7 cm (16 1/2 x 18 in.) Textile H x W: 33.7 x 36.5 cm (13 1/4 x 14 3/8 in.)

Cite this object as

Handkerchief (England), 1897; cotton; Frame H x W: 41.9 x 45.7 cm (16 1/2 x 18 in.) Textile H x W: 33.7 x 36.5 cm (13 1/4 x 14 3/8 in.); Gift of Paul F. Walter; 2008-21-2

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<ref name=CH>{{cite web |url=https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18730003/ |title=Handkerchief (England), 1897 |author=Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum |accessdate=25 June 2019 |publisher=Smithsonian Institution}}</ref>