This rectangular embroidery sample features a luxurious design embroidered in grey silk, silver threads, sequins, and wire. The different materials create a variety of textures that catch the light. The background fabric is black, patterned with light purple diamonds with notches cut out of the bottom point. Along the left edge is a vertical band of silver thread, grey silk French knots and little silver wire flower medallions, and repeating S shapes in sequins and feathery silver thread. To the right of this band is a repeating motif, with a long leafy stem curved above a large feather. The stem has pairs of serrated leaves running down its length, alternating with floral medallions centered over the stem. The silver leaves have lines of sequins down their spines; the flowers are made of bright crimped silver wire and thread. Grey silk French knots fill in the space between leaves and flowers. Below is the large feather, like a peacock feather. The teardrop-shaped center is made of crimped silver wire and thread, with a floral medallion in the round end. The center is surrounded by long fronds in wispy silver stitches and sequins. Lines of grey silk French knots alternate with the fronds. There are three foliage-and-feather motifs in total, stacked vertically. The sample is surrounded by a cream-colored paper enclosure. At the right side of the sample, a crinkled brown paper is folded away.

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Object Timeline

1932	We acquired this object.
2012	We photographed this object.
2013	We photographed this object.
2018	We photographed this object.
2019	We exhibited this object.
2024	You found it!

Embroidery Sample (France)

This is a Embroidery sample. It is dated ca. 1770 and we acquired it in 1932. Its medium is silk, metal thread, metal sequins, metal coils, crimped metal wire, paper and its technique is embroidered on uncut supplementary warp pile. It is a part of the Textiles department.

These embroidery samples haven been in their original paper enclosures for over 200 years, preserving their brilliant color and pristine condition. The samples likely represent designs for men’s coats although embroidery houses could produce designs on any fabric according to a client’s wishes. While consumers in Paris could visit the marchand-merciers (retailers) to see samples in person, these paper envelopes were highly portable, meaning selling agents could take orders from customers far removed from the city center. Paris was widely recognized as the capital of fashion, and this perception was due mainly to the large volume of high-quality textiles produced in Lyon specifically for the Paris trade. By the 18th century, the textile industry in Lyon employed thousands of men and women. Local government and business leaders recognized Lyon’s special place in the textile design and production—it was the first to introduce seasonal changes in silk design. With the goal of training the next generation of textile designers, in 1756 leaders proposed opening a free school for flower painting under the leadership of a flower specialist with some knowledge of fabric design. It was not until the end of the century that the school produced its finest graduate, the talented designer Jean François Bony (French, 1754–1825), whose influence here is evident.

It is credited Museum purchase from Au Panier Fleuri Fund.

Its dimensions are

H x W: 30.5 x 18.7 cm (12 x 7 3/8 in.)

Cite this object as

Embroidery Sample (France); silk, metal thread, metal sequins, metal coils, crimped metal wire, paper; H x W: 30.5 x 18.7 cm (12 x 7 3/8 in.); Museum purchase from Au Panier Fleuri Fund; 1932-1-7

This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Embroidered and Embellished.

Short URL http://cprhw.tt/o/2BZjk/
Accession Number 1932-1-7
Object ID 18338227